Question:
>I am looking for someone in the Hartford, CT >area who specializes in training dogs for >protection. How much will this cost and how >long will it take to train a dog.
~~~~~~~ Michael I know the Hartford area, and can understand why you are asking this question. : ( Do you already have a dog that you want to be more protective, or do you want to buy a dog? If the former what kind of dog do you have? Some dogs just are not protective dog material. If the latter,it is not a one time deal. A dog might not be the way for you to go. Maybe a good security system,instead. You don’t just buy a trained dog, and that’s it,you know?? The dog needs be a family pack member,and interact much with you and your family. There are a LOT of problems in the Harford area,with dog abuse,so please think this through.if you do not already have a dog. It would be terrible if your dog was grabbed, or induced into a fight ..they take no prisoners.. If you do decide you still want to train your dog, or get a trained dog,ask your vet. If he doesn’t know of someone good in your area, call your local kennel club. Do not get someone out of the ads in the paper! Okay? Please?? By the way, A while ago, I was having dinner at Max Downtown,with friends,and when we went back to our cars,I could see Ati and Keeper were looking weird,(I know my pups VERY WELL) and they jumped in the back looking out the window, barking and growling. at my friends car, that was parked behind mine. Their car was broken into and the person had smashed the window out, and grabbed the phone, and got some things out of the glove compartment. We called the police who said that there are so MANY robberies in WOW!! We were amazed. All I could do was think, that this person,could have attempted to break into my car. What would have happened? 1. They would have attacked him, and might have gotten hurt. 2. They could have been hit by a car, 3. They could have gotten lost. 4. They could have been stolen! 5. He could have had a gun, and they might have gotten killed. My dogs are natural protective,and will defend their property with their lives,but I will tell you,since this has happened,they have NEVER been to HARTFORD again. and if I didn’t have to….neither would I……. Good luck, and take care Paulette~ A dogs life is too short… their only fault really…….
Response:
I am looking for someone in the Hartford, CT area who specializes in training dogs for protection. How much will this cost and how long will it take to train a dog.
Response:
: I am looking for someone in the Hartford, CT area who specializes in : training dogs for protection. How much will this cost and how long will : it take to train a dog. This is the right place to ask for the information. I’m not familiar with trainers in that area so I can’t answer your question directly. However, the way you phrase the question suggests that perhaps you have not completely researched what is involved in protection training. I could be wrong but it sounds like your understanding is that it is a one time thing, dog is trained, money is paid and thats all there is. A critical thing to know is that the training is never complete. Really. The dog learns the basics and then it must be "maintained" on a regular basis. Failure to do the maintainence training results in a dangerous dog. A well trained protection dog is something beautiful to behld. It is not, however, something to undertake lightly. It will take continuing involvement and expense on your part. The following references will help you both learn what is involved in owning a protection dog, and will point you to resources that can help you find someone who is reputable. Responsible Protection Dog Ownership http://www.netpet.com/articles/protection.html Dr. P’s Protection Dog Training http://www.uwsp.edu/acad/psych/dog/protect.htm#artics Be very careful. There are no legal guidelines to what the term "protection dog" means, and nothing but your dedication to research to protect you from idiots and just plain evil folks. There are good protection dog trainers out there but until you really understand the scope of the training involved you cannot trust any one’s recommendations. You need to know enough to make the evaluation for yourself. I could be wrong but I suspect that your research will lead you to rephrase the questions, assuming you still believe a protection dog is right for your circumstances. If you have questions you will find here people knowledable enough to answer them. It will help get you good information if you don’t worry about length – favor completeness over brevity. The more people know about your knowledge and circumstances the better the quality of advice you will receive. Diane Blackman – – – – – – – – "The nature of reinforcement and its timing and delivery are essential for a dog trainer to master." "Smart Trainers — Brilliant Dogs" by Janet Lewis
Response:
Please Help, Any suggestions greatfully accepted… I have a GSDX and I love him to bits. There is a problem however, he is very agresive to other dogs, wether he is on the lead or not. I have had him since he was five months old, from a rescue home. Hes been through obedience training begginer and advanced plus I have taken him to agility just to try and get him to see other dogs and accept them, but alas to no avail. I asked my vet wether they new of any dog phycologists that could help and basicaly they said it would require to much time and effort. If he sees a dog while he is on his lead he will crouch down in to a stalking walk, I try to tell him that this is a bad behaviour but its like his brain has just shut down and hes in fighting mode. In the house he is VERY obedient, I can train him to do just about anything apart from attacking other dogs. Once the dog is next to us then hes away trying to bite the face of the other dog or trying to push the other dog to the floor. He does’nt give up even if the other dog submits with its belly facing up ? If hes off the lead he will generally not bother with other dogs as long as they don’t get to close. If they do he will run at them and send them flying and then jump and bite them ????? He is two years old now. Any Help ? Cheers, Col
Response:
Houston area dog trainer now offering services. New Internet Customers Save !!! basic obedience—–$100 advanced obedience—–$150 I also solve problems. Can train at your home if desired.(8:00 – noon only) All ages and all breeds. Call now for the love of your dog. Dan (713) 849-0610 8:00 – 2:00pm (281)466-8160 after 2:00pm pgr
Response:
Houston area dog trainer now offering services. New Internet Customers Save !!! basic obedience advanced obedience I also solve problems. Can train at your home if desired.(8:00 – noon only) All ages and all breeds. Call now for the love of your dog. Dan (713) 849-0610 8:00 – 2:00pm (281)466-8160 after 2:00pm pgr If you have a question that you would like answered, post it in this newsgroup with subject –LoneStar Trainer– and I will try to answer it. If answer takes large amount of explanation, I will try to direct you to a web page or e-mail mailing list that could be of some help.
Response:
Go to dog training school – enrol in the basic / puppy class – and ENJOY!!! Sonia – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >What is the best way to teach a five-month old puppy to heel?
Response:
There is really no *best* method to train individual dogs to do anything. Some require coaxing, some require encouragement, some require correction, etc., etc. IMO, modified Koehler type methods usually work best for heels, but not every dog mat respond to that type of training. My best suggestion would be to look around for a professional trainer that you trust and who’s observed methods meet your requirements. Failing that, you can always approach other dog owners who’s dogs heel. If they’ve trained the heel themselves, most would be more than glad to show you how, I’m sure. The problem with heel is that it requires timing on the owner’s part and that’s a lot easier to convey and better understood when done in person. – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >What is the best way to teach a five-month old puppy to heel?
Response:
writes: >What is the best way to teach a five-month old puppy to heel?
Puppy training classes Talk with your vet for a referral Bob Maida Manassas,Va
Response:
What is the best way to teach a five-month old puppy to heel?
Response:
On Saturday, a young 2 month lab puppy was left on our street with a note requesting that someone take him in. My husband and I already own a retriever mix, Shakespeare, and decided it was time to give him a baby brother. When we adopted Shakes two years ago, he was at least six months old and had been house broken. With this puppy, we are starting from scratch and so we have several questions. House-training: 1. Is two months too early to begin crate training for house breaking purposes? We’re concerned that Cooper (the new puppy) is too young to control his urges and will be forced to pee in his sleeping quarters. 2. Although we know it is best to break dogs in by bringing them out several times a day, both my husband and I work, so this would be impossible. This is what we have been doing, please let me know if it is correct.: We have confined him to a small room. We put paper down near the door of the room. Each time Cooper relieves himself on the floor, rather than the paper, we point to the mess, firmly say "NO" and place him on the paper. If we catch him in the act, we scoop him up and put him on the paper. Each time he goes on the paper, we enthusiastically praise him. Dog-Relations: 1. When we first got Shakespeare, he was a rescue dog. He did not have the usual trust towards humans that many puppies seem to have. Although he was very bright, he was not very obedient. Within a week, he began to show his teeth. We took Shakes to an obedience trainer, who explained that Shakespeare was an alpha dog. Athough after two months of training, his behavior greatly improved, the trainer told us that he would always try to remain the alpha dog. The first day Shakes was very excited about the puppy. He sniffed him and followed him around. He let the puppy play with his toys, chew his bones and eat his food. He even allowed Cooper to nip his tail and paws. The only time he would become agressive is if we gave Cooper a lot of attentiion. Halfway through the second day, Shakes had had enough of Cooper’s nipping, barked at him and mouthed him. The puppy was frightened , but not hurt. Later on that same day, Cooper tried to eat Shakes’ food, Shakes growled. When Cooper continued for the food, Shakespeare again mouthed him. This happened a third time when Cooper was jumping on me for attention. Each time Cooper ran crying, Shakes went over to him and seemed to check if he was o.k. This morning, we fed Shakes first and then fed Cooper. Shakes left his dish and began eating Cooper’s. Cooper would not go near the food with Shakes there. After Shakes finished Cooper’s, I filled up the plate. Shakes did not seem to want any more. I put Cooper by his dish and Shakes came over to eat again. I broke down and put a piece of ham in Shakes’ dish. While he was eating from his own dish, Cooper began eating from his. Although we know that Shakes is the alpha dog and needs to put Cooper in his place, we are concerned that he might one day hurt the puppy. He seems to understand that Cooper is a baby and treats him differently than he treats other adult dogs, however the trainer told us that Shakespeare was not socialized during his two to five month period and so he is not sure how to act around humans and other dogs. How should we handle this situation of sibling rivalry so that Cooper can feel welcomed without Shakespeare feeling threatened? Thank you for taking the time to read this long-winded letter. I would appreciate any help you can give to us. Gail and Robert Chiarovano
Response:
hi Gail and Robert, I don’t have much advice on the crate training; both my dogs are not housebroken. We spend almost the whole time we are home outside with them, where they naturally go in the dirt (which is fine), so when we actually do come inside, they don’t consider it any different than outside and they look for a place (usually a rug on the vinyl) and they go. I’m sure I could make some major headway with this if I put any real effort into it, and it’s certainly my fault and not the dogs’. Anyway, what I wanted to tell you was how I feed my dogs. Suzi, the 1 year old, is definitely the top dog, and Teddy, the 9 month old, is not always submissive. Feeding time got to be pretty hard, and we had a couple of full-blown dog fights before I decided that feeding them in the same room is not worth the risk. I started separating them for feeding because of this, and also because Teddy’s puppy food makes Suzi throw up. For the first week they were quite outraged that I was feeding them separately; they actually seemed to miss the chance to bicker and argue amongst themselves, and each thought for sure the other was getting the better food. After a week, it’s worked out quite well. When I get the cup out to scoop up the food, Teddy goes and stands by the door and waits for me, and Suzi stands back by the other side of the room and waits, and they don’t rush around trying to get each other’s food or anything… They both also throw up *a lot* less — they both used to throw up quite often, we think from wolfing their food down so quickly when they ate together… Eating together can be very competitive and stressful for dogs. If you have a dog who is a picky eater, it’s recommended that you feed her in the presence of other dogs so that her urge to eat goes up due to the competition… for dogs who are already competing a lot either because one is very dominant or because there’s a new puppy in the house, I’d just feed them separately. You’ll surely get lots of other interesting advice too. Good luck and congrats on your new pup! cindi — "Don’t be afraid to treat your kids with more respect than our culture thinks is normal." _Spiritual Parenting_
Response:
>I don’t have much advice on the crate training; both my dogs are not >housebroken. We spend almost the whole time we are home outside with >them, where they naturally go in the dirt (which is fine), so when we >actually do come inside, they don’t consider it any different than >outside and they look for a place (usually a rug on the vinyl) and they >go. I’m sure I could make some major headway with this if I put any real >effort into it, and it’s certainly my fault and not the dogs’.
Just a note from another thread: Cindi, if you’re serious about eventually breeding dogs, please learn how to housebreak your current animals. The people who purchase your puppies will probably be asking many, many questions on the subject and a <shrug>"gee, I don’t know" is not the best answer. >Anyway, what I wanted to tell you was how I feed my dogs. Suzi, the 1 >year old, is definitely the top dog, and Teddy, the 9 month old, is not >always submissive. Feeding time got to be pretty hard, and we had a >couple of full-blown dog fights before I decided that feeding them in the >same room is not worth the risk.
Try again. I’ve got 3 neutered male dogs, one quite dominant. If I allowed it, food-related fights would be common. They aren’t. I feed them in the same room, at the same time. They are on sit-stays (well, the youngest is just learning this, but he’s getting it) until I put the bowls down AND RELEASE THEM. They are permitted to eat from their bowl only, no sniffing around to see what’s dropped out of somebody else’s bowl. With all three, I still supervise. When it was just Sam & Noah, I could leave the room and they’d be fine. Structure, consistency, and discipline. >Eating together can be very competitive and stressful for dogs.
True, if their human allows it to be. Mine eat quickly but Noah is the only one with a tendency to bolt his food. > If you >have a dog who is a picky eater, it’s recommended that you feed her in >the presence of other dogs so that her urge to eat goes up due to the >competition…
If you have a submissive, picky eater, feeding her in the presence of other dogs may make her quit eating altogether. > for dogs who are already competing a lot either because >one is very dominant or because there’s a new puppy in the house, I’d >just feed them separately.
It’s certainly one approach, but it avoids the problem more than it deals with it. Sometimes avoiding a problem is a quicker fix, but training through a problem is a more permanent one.
Response:
: >I don’t have much advice on the crate training; both my dogs are not : >housebroken. We spend almost the whole time we are home outside with : >them, where they naturally go in the dirt (which is fine), so when we : >actually do come inside, they don’t consider it any different than : >outside and they look for a place (usually a rug on the vinyl) and they : >go. I’m sure I could make some major headway with this if I put any real : >effort into it, and it’s certainly my fault and not the dogs’. : Just a note from another thread: Cindi, if you’re serious about : eventually breeding dogs, please learn how to housebreak your : current animals. The people who purchase your puppies will probably : be asking many, many questions on the subject and a <shrug>"gee, I : don’t know" is not the best answer. Well, I didn’t say "Gee, I don’t know." I said I don’t have much advice on crate training for this particular poster; given that on this newsgroup that is a very frequently posted-about subject, I don’t see why I should add my two cents about it, especially since I don’t do it. I do know *how* to describe how it’s done, however, should any dog newbie ever ask me. : >Anyway, what I wanted to tell you was how I feed my dogs. Suzi, the 1 : >year old, is definitely the top dog, and Teddy, the 9 month old, is not : >always submissive. Feeding time got to be pretty hard, and we had a : >couple of full-blown dog fights before I decided that feeding them in the : >same room is not worth the risk. : Try again. I’ve got 3 neutered male dogs, one quite dominant. If I : allowed it, food-related fights would be common. They aren’t. I : feed them in the same room, at the same time. They are on sit-stays : (well, the youngest is just learning this, but he’s getting it) : until I put the bowls down AND RELEASE THEM. They are permitted to : eat from their bowl only, no sniffing around to see what’s dropped : out of somebody else’s bowl. With all three, I still supervise. : When it was just Sam & Noah, I could leave the room and they’d be : fine. Structure, consistency, and discipline. Oooh, goody for you. Sounds very impressive. : >Eating together can be very competitive and stressful for dogs. : True, if their human allows it to be. Mine eat quickly but Noah is : the only one with a tendency to bolt his food. : > If you : >have a dog who is a picky eater, it’s recommended that you feed her in : >the presence of other dogs so that her urge to eat goes up due to the : >competition… : If you have a submissive, picky eater, feeding her in the presence : of other dogs may make her quit eating altogether. That’s a good point; I’d never heard of that one before. : > for dogs who are already competing a lot either because : >one is very dominant or because there’s a new puppy in the house, I’d : >just feed them separately. : It’s certainly one approach, but it avoids the problem more than it : deals with it. Sometimes avoiding a problem is a quicker fix, but : training through a problem is a more permanent one. Well, it doesn’t *avoid* the problem. It does deal with it. There’s nothing wrong with feeding them on separate sides of a door. It might not meet your standards for how you take care of your dogs… As for "training thru a problem", they are trained thru it; one goes outside, one stays inside. On hand commands even. So there. :-P 
Look, seriously folks, I am not going to like being followed around in this ng with everything I say scrutinized to see if it matches Tom, Dick and Harry’s standards of dog training. You can all rest assured that I’m not planning on breeding any time soon, and I’m looking into furthering my dog education in the meantime. I’d like to be able to post about things that work for me (and things that don’t) without snotty "you sure shouldn’t breed if you don’t even know *that*!" follow-ups to each thing. ’Course, you’re all free to post whatever you want, but I thought a little reassurance that I’m not turning into puppy mill central any time soon might be in order. cindi — "Don’t be afraid to treat your kids with more respect than our culture thinks is normal." _Spiritual Parenting_
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – > On Saturday, a young 2 month lab puppy was left on our street with a note > requesting that someone take him in. My husband and I already own a > retriever mix, Shakespeare, and decided it was time to give him a baby > brother. > When we adopted Shakes two years ago, he was at least six months old and > had been house broken. With this puppy, we are starting from scratch and > so we have several questions. > House-training: > 1. Is two months too early to begin crate training for house > breaking purposes? We’re concerned that Cooper (the new puppy) is too > young to control his urges and will be forced to pee in his sleeping > quarters. > 2. Although we know it is best to break dogs in by bringing them > out several times a day, both my husband and I work, so this would be > impossible. This is what we have been doing, please let me know if it is > correct.: > We have confined him to a small room. We put paper down near > the door of the room. Each time Cooper relieves himself on the floor, > rather than the paper, we point to the mess, firmly say "NO" and place > him on the paper. > If we catch him in the act, we scoop him up and put him on the paper. > Each time he goes on the paper, we enthusiastically praise him. > Dog-Relations: > 1. When we first got Shakespeare, he was a rescue dog. He did > not have the usual trust towards humans that many puppies seem to have. > Although he was very bright, he was not very obedient. Within a week, he > began to show his teeth. > We took Shakes to an obedience trainer, who explained that > Shakespeare was an alpha dog. Athough after two months of training, his > behavior greatly improved, the trainer told us that he would always try > to remain the alpha dog. > The first day Shakes was very excited about the puppy. He > sniffed him and followed him around. He let the puppy play with his toys, > chew his bones and eat his food. He even allowed Cooper to nip his > tail and paws. The only time he would become agressive is if we gave > Cooper a lot of attentiion. > Halfway through the second day, Shakes had had enough of > Cooper’s nipping, barked at him and mouthed him. The puppy was > frightened , but not hurt. Later on that same day, Cooper tried to eat > Shakes’ food, Shakes growled. When Cooper continued for the food, > Shakespeare again mouthed him. This happened a third time when Cooper > was jumping on me for attention. Each time Cooper ran crying, Shakes > went over to him and seemed to check if he was o.k. > This morning, we fed Shakes first and then fed Cooper. > Shakes left his dish and began eating Cooper’s. Cooper would not go near > the food with Shakes there. After Shakes finished Cooper’s, I filled up > the plate. Shakes did not seem to want any more. I put Cooper by his > dish and Shakes came over to eat again. I broke down and put a piece of > ham in Shakes’ dish. While he was eating from his own dish, Cooper began > eating from his. > Although we know that Shakes is the alpha dog and needs > to put Cooper in his place, we are concerned that he might one day hurt > the puppy. He seems to understand that Cooper is a baby and treats him > differently than he treats other adult dogs, however the trainer told us > that Shakespeare was not socialized during his two to five month period > and so he is not sure how to act around humans and other dogs. > How should we handle this situation of sibling rivalry > so that Cooper can feel welcomed without Shakespeare feeling threatened? > Thank you for taking the time to read this long-winded letter. I would > appreciate any help you can give to us. > Gail and Robert Chiarovano > as far as the crate training, I think he is too young because he will
constantly mess in his crate. Puppies can hold it generally for 1 hour more than their age in months. So a 2 month old can hold it for 3 hours. We did something similar to your method of leaving a newspaper area and a non-newspaper area. I wouldn’t scold the pup if you don’t catch him in the act. Check out Jake’s hompage to see the training that we have done for him during the different stages of his life. http://student-www.uchicago.edu/users/mju2/ours.html mc
Response:
> Look, seriously folks, I am not going to like being followed around in > this ng with everything I say scrutinized to see if it matches Tom, Dick > and Harry’s standards of dog training. You can all rest assured that I’m > not planning on breeding any time soon, and I’m looking into furthering > my dog education in the meantime. I’d like to be able to post about > things that work for me (and things that don’t) without snotty "you sure > shouldn’t breed if you don’t even know *that*!" follow-ups to each > thing. ’Course, you’re all free to post whatever you want, but I thought > a little reassurance that I’m not turning into puppy mill central any > time soon might be in order.
I think you’re being WAY too sensitive here. The poster responding to you said NOTHING about breeding or being a puppy miller, but simply shared their experiences on dog feeding, out of the goodness of their heart and spare time. If you don’t want to be followed around, then dont post to a public international newsgroup. Thats how it works, you post, you get responses, nice or not. Again, this person said NOTHING to you about breeding. Thats what this newsgroup is ABOUT. Exchanging ideas, techniques, etc.. Oh yeah, if you think Im being snotty, TOUGH! You’re the one being snotty to this particular poster. Terri
Response:
> On Saturday, a young 2 month lab puppy was left on our street with a note > requesting that someone take him in. My husband and I already own a > retriever mix, Shakespeare, and decided it was time to give him a baby > brother. .. > House-training: > 1. Is two months too early to begin crate training for house > breaking purposes?
That depends on whether or not you can let him out frequently. Another poster mentioned the general rule of thumb – age in months + 1 = number of hours a puppy might be left in a crate without mishap. If you must leave the puppy alone for longer than that, confinement to a small room with papers down is a workable possibility. Just remember that learning to eliminate in the house, even on papers, may slow down the total housebreaking effort. > 2. Although we know it is best to break dogs in by bringing them > out several times a day, both my husband and I work, so this would be > impossible. This is what we have been doing, please let me know if it is > correct.: > We have confined him to a small room. We put paper down near > the door of the room.
Put papers down over the whole floor, at least at first. Gradually reduce the amount of papering, and you might want to leave a little bit of soiled paper in the middle of the clean papers – to help him get the idea a little faster. > Dog-Relations: > 1. When we first got Shakespeare, he was a rescue dog. He did > not have the usual trust towards humans that many puppies seem to have. .. > Halfway through the second day, Shakes had had enough of > Cooper’s nipping, barked at him and mouthed him. The puppy was > frightened , but not hurt. Later on that same day, Cooper tried to eat > Shakes’ food, Shakes growled.
At this point, you probably should have corrected Cooper for food thievery and given Shakes a warning about taking on too much unearned authority. > When Cooper continued for the food, Shakespeare again mouthed him.
Intervene. It’s your job to keep Cooper in line, not Shakes’. > This morning, we fed Shakes first and then fed Cooper. > Shakes left his dish and began eating Cooper’s.
Why did you let him do this? "Excuse me, but that’s not acceptable behavior in MY house. Go lay down." With enforcement, if necessary. > Cooper would not go near the food with Shakes there.
I wouldn’t, either, if I was a proper puppy. > After Shakes finished Cooper’s, I filled up > the plate. Shakes did not seem to want any more.
You asked him? Hello? Hello?!? It wasn’t his food, it wasn’t his place, and who the heck is making the rules in your household, anyway? The dog? > I put Cooper by his > dish and Shakes came over to eat again. I broke down and put a piece of > ham in Shakes’ dish. While he was eating from his own dish, Cooper began > eating from his.
Shakes is a terrific human trainer. > Although we know that Shakes is the alpha dog and needs > to put Cooper in his place,
A proper alpha can put a puppy in its place with a LOOK. A proper alpha human can put an adult alpha dog in its place with a LOOK, if it’s the right look. Or a command (leave it, go lay down, here, sit, whatever it takes), and refusal to obey that command has penalties. Undersocialized alphas (and I’ve got one of those), can be taught that anything more physical than a LOOK and a growl will be Big Trubbles. > How should we handle this situation of sibling rivalry > so that Cooper can feel welcomed without Shakespeare feeling threatened?
Decide on your house rules. Teach the house rules to both dogs. Enforce house rules when necessary. Spend time with each dog individually. Spend time with them together, training and playing as well as just hanging out in front of the TV. A lot of the angst might be averted if your attitude is matter-of-fact. "This is the New Order, Shakes. Deal with it."
Response:
>Well, I didn’t say "Gee, I don’t know." I said I don’t have much advice >on crate training for this particular poster; given that on this >newsgroup that is a very frequently posted-about subject, I don’t see why >I should add my two cents about it, especially since I don’t do it. I do >know *how* to describe how it’s done, however, should any dog newbie >ever ask me.
Puppy buyers can depend on a good breeder to know, through experience, how their dogs will react to certain training techniques and aids. Not "I read it in a book" or "I heard it on the ‘net". "I did this with Spot, and it fixed him right up. But I wouldn’t do it with Puppykins, because she’s not as confident as Spot." Hands-on, real-life experience. >Oooh, goody for you. Sounds very impressive.
Sarcasm isn’t your color. And it isn’t impressive, it just IS. I’m way too lazy to shlep bowls and dogs from room to room just because they’ve had a little difference of opinion. >: If you have a submissive, picky eater, feeding her in the presence >: of other dogs may make her quit eating altogether. >That’s a good point; I’d never heard of that one before.
Chalk one up for experience – my roommate’s Jack won’t eat in front of my Noah, unless he’s crated and I’m standing right there. Jack is quite justified in his ‘paranoia’, Noah is a little bully when he’s allowed to be. >: It’s certainly one approach, but it avoids the problem more than it >: deals with it. Sometimes avoiding a problem is a quicker fix, but >: training through a problem is a more permanent one. >Well, it doesn’t *avoid* the problem.
Sure it does. The problem is that the two dogs will fight if fed in the same room. By feeding them in different rooms, you avoid putting the dogs in the situation that causes the fight. It *prevents* the problem by AVOIDING the problem. But it doesn’t solve the problem, nor does it teach the dogs anything about how to behave under the avoided circumstances. Sometimes avoidance is a practical solution, particularly in cases where the situation is rarely encountered and easily avoided. I’m just to lazy to go to the trouble of feeding different dogs in different rooms, then running back through to pick up the bowls. And this doesn’t help the dogs deal with other food-related situations. I feed my dogs various treats at different times, and I refuse to run around the house simply to feed three dogs their biscuits in different locations. It also doesn’t deal with the lack of respect your dogs display toward you by fighting right under your nose. Maybe you allow fighting. I don’t. My house, my rules. Bust a rule, deal with me. >… It might >not meet your standards for how you take care of your dogs…
Standards, shmandards. It’s a matter of perceptions, I suppose. I prefer that the dogs do the work. If you’d rather spend your days running around picking up after the canines, please feel free to continue to do so. It just isn’t very convenient for me. >As for >"training thru a problem", they are trained thru it; one goes outside, >one stays inside. On hand commands even. So there. :-P
Big whup. My HORSE leaves his stall on "hand commands". And I’m sure he’s a whole lot stupider than a Cocker. This isn’t training through the problem, this is avoiding the problem. >Look, seriously folks, I am not going to like being followed around in >this ng with everything I say scrutinized to see if it matches Tom, Dick >and Harry’s standards of dog training.
Nobody’s "following" you, dear. I’ve been here since before here WAS here, and it isn’t my fault you’ve made yourself conspicuous (my spelling, however, is entirely my fault). In case you haven’t noticed, EVERYBODY gets scrutinized to see whether their methods match mine. I pick up a lot of good stuff that way. I also pick out some not-so-good stuff, and try to explain why I consider it less than stellar advice. > You can all rest assured that I’m >not planning on breeding any time soon, and I’m looking into furthering >my dog education in the meantime.
Good. The dogs you currently own are the best "dog" education you can possibly have. Use them to learn about the various activities and techniques available to a dog owner. Dogs live a long time, and your current dogs’ manners, behavior and abilities will act as an example of the kind of dog owner you are, and the kind of breeder you might become. > I’d like to be able to post about >things that work for me (and things that don’t) without snotty "you sure >shouldn’t breed if you don’t even know *that*!" follow-ups to each >thing.
Darling, if you think I’m being snotty, you just haven’t been paying attention. You wanted to know about becoming a breeder, and about what kinds of things make a good breeder. I was simply pointing out that housebreaking your current dogs, teaching them to be polite to one another (even in the presence of food), and training them in good manners would make a favorable impression on potential puppy buyers sometime down the road. The experience gained would allow you to speak more knowledgeably to new owners about the kinds of typical "difficulties" you’ve encountered when civilizing a new member of the family. > ‘Course, you’re all free to post whatever you want, but I thought >a little reassurance that I’m not turning into puppy mill central any >time soon might be in order.
Sooner, later, or never. It doesn’t matter. A good breeder is one who has experience. A good breeder is a resource and recourse to her puppy buyers, and to fill that niche a good breeder goes out of her way to understand the psychology and practicality of training.
Response:
- Hide quoted text — Show quoted text -> Look, seriously folks, I am not going to like being followed around in > this ng with everything I say scrutinized to see if it matches Tom, Dick > and Harry’s standards of dog training. You can all rest assured that I’m > not planning on breeding any time soon, and I’m looking into furthering > my dog education in the meantime. I’d like to be able to post about > things that work for me (and things that don’t) without snotty "you sure > shouldn’t breed if you don’t even know *that*!" follow-ups to each > thing. ’Course, you’re all free to post whatever you want, but I thought > a little reassurance that I’m not turning into puppy mill central any > time soon might be in order. >I think you’re being WAY too sensitive here. The poster responding to >you said NOTHING about breeding or being a puppy miller, but simply >shared their experiences on dog feeding, out of the goodness of their >heart and spare time. >If you don’t want to be followed around, then dont post to a public >international newsgroup. Thats how it works, you post, you get >responses, >nice or not. Again, this person said NOTHING to you about breeding. >Thats what this newsgroup is ABOUT. Exchanging ideas, techniques, etc.. >Oh yeah, if you think Im being snotty, TOUGH! You’re the one being >snotty to this particular poster. >Terri
Actually, Terri……
"Just a note from another thread: Cindi, if you’re serious about eventually breeding dogs, please learn how to housebreak your current animals. The people who purchase your puppies will probably be asking many, many questions on the subject and a <shrug>"gee, I don’t know" is not the best answer." He did say SOMETHING to her about breeding. Simply because she said "I dont’ know" concerning crate training while offering her experiences about feeding dogs. I didn’t like this either:
"I don’t have much advice on the crate training; both my dogs are not housebroken." But some seem to have it "in" for Cindi since her last posts… Why?
Response:
: : I think you’re being WAY too sensitive here. Yes, I think you are quite right. I’m off to apologize in my next post. : The poster responding to : you said NOTHING about breeding or being a puppy miller, but simply Well, no, the poster did post about my potential for breeding and about how it would not be good to tell any potential buyers that I don’t know how to crate train. : shared their experiences on dog feeding, out of the goodness of their : heart and spare time. Yes, yes, *after* the breeding remark was made. : If you don’t want to be followed around, then dont post to a public : international newsgroup. Thats how it works, you post, you get : responses, I think I said everybody is free to post whatever they want. I think I said that in this particular case I didn’t much like it. That doesn’t mean anybody has to refrain from doing it — I think I made that clear. : nice or not. Again, this person said NOTHING to you about breeding. No, you are wrong about this. : Thats what this newsgroup is ABOUT. Exchanging ideas, techniques, etc.. : Oh yeah, if you think Im being snotty, TOUGH! You’re the one being : snotty : to this particular poster. : Terri cindi — "Don’t be afraid to treat your kids with more respect than our culture thinks is normal." _Spiritual Parenting_
Response:
First off, please accept my apology for being so sensitive about your remark about breeding. I don’t know your name because I’ve never seen
: Puppy buyers can depend on a good breeder to know, through : experience, how their dogs will react to certain training techniques : and aids. Not "I read it in a book" or "I heard it on the ‘net". : "I did this with Spot, and it fixed him right up. But I wouldn’t do : it with Puppykins, because she’s not as confident as Spot." : Hands-on, real-life experience. Yes, you are quite right. : >Oooh, goody for you. Sounds very impressive. : Sarcasm isn’t your color. And it isn’t impressive, it just IS. I’m : way too lazy to shlep bowls and dogs from room to room just because : they’ve had a little difference of opinion. Well, that was a mix of sarcasm and true admiration. I know I didn’t express it very well. : >Well, it doesn’t *avoid* the problem. : Sure it does. The problem is that the two dogs will fight if fed in : the same room. By feeding them in different rooms, you avoid : putting the dogs in the situation that causes the fight. It Actually, they won’t fight in front of me anymore. I’m still feeding them this way because one tiny bite of puppy food makes Suzi puke. And because it’s not that hard; the dog food is stored right by the door that I close to separate them. And I’ve also got into the habit of spending alone time with each dog while they are split up like this, after they eat. : *prevents* the problem by AVOIDING the problem. But it doesn’t : solve the problem, nor does it teach the dogs anything about how to : behave under the avoided circumstances. Sometimes avoidance is a : practical solution, particularly in cases where the situation is : rarely encountered and easily avoided. I’m just to lazy to go to : the trouble of feeding different dogs in different rooms, then : running back through to pick up the bowls. And this doesn’t help : the dogs deal with other food-related situations. I feed my dogs : various treats at different times, and I refuse to run around the : house simply to feed three dogs their biscuits in different : locations. Yeah, I see your point. I’d prolly be too lazy to do it too if it involved anything more than what it involves, which isn’t much. They do get their biscuits together, and they are learning that Teddy gets to eat Teddy’s biscuits and Suzi gets to eat Suzi’s, or else nobody gets anything. : It also doesn’t deal with the lack of respect your dogs display : toward you by fighting right under your nose. Maybe you allow : fighting. I don’t. My house, my rules. Bust a rule, deal with me. I’m glad you brought this up… I do allow bickering — Suzi snarling and nipping to keep Teddy "in his place." But I don’t allow actual dog fights, with actual biting being attempted. I posted about this a few years ago when I had two pound dogs I had rescued and one was very dominant. I was advised here and by my vet to allow them to sort out their pecking order, but after several weeks it seemed like keeping the pecking order in place was not what the dom dog was after — he wanted more… So I started wondering if I shouldn’t allow any sort of aggressive or assertive displays at all… My instinct tells me that constantly disciplining the dominant dog when he acts assertive around the submissive dog will only cause resentment and will cause more extreme aggression when I’m not around — like a child who is clearly not trusted and who is placed in the bully role, who then learns to act sweet in front of the parent while saving his bullying for when no adults are around. What I have been doing with Suzi and Teddy is allowing, like I said, some snarling and snapping, but preventing anything above that. And no snarling or snapping around me or my family… I mean, no snarling when Teddy gets petted, but snarling is OK if Teddy tries to walk in front of Suzi or in other situations where they are at least several feet from any humans. And anyway, I don’t know if this winds up just being more confusing for them in the long run… So, the question is, how much dominance should be allowed? (I guess I should have done this in another thread…) : >… It might : >not meet your standards for how you take care of your dogs… : Standards, shmandards. It’s a matter of perceptions, I suppose. I : prefer that the dogs do the work. If you’d rather spend your days : running around picking up after the canines, please feel free to : continue to do so. It just isn’t very convenient for me. I guess there is something to be said for setting up situations where the dogs are trained, even if it’s easier to do it a different way, just because the more training, the happier the dog… At least that’s what I’m learning as I read more and more and watch my dogs more and more. : >As for : >"training thru a problem", they are trained thru it; one goes outside, : >one stays inside. On hand commands even. So there. :-P : Big whup. My HORSE leaves his stall on "hand commands". And I’m : sure he’s a whole lot stupider than a Cocker. This isn’t training : through the problem, this is avoiding the problem. Aw, I was trying to be funny… You know, 
means sticking my tongue out, and means smiling… : >Look, seriously folks, I am not going to like being followed around in : >this ng with everything I say scrutinized to see if it matches Tom, Dick : >and Harry’s standards of dog training. : Nobody’s "following" you, dear. I’ve been here since before here : WAS here, and it isn’t my fault you’ve made yourself conspicuous (my : spelling, however, is entirely my fault). In case you haven’t : noticed, EVERYBODY gets scrutinized to see whether their methods : match mine. I pick up a lot of good stuff that way. I also pick : out some not-so-good stuff, and try to explain why I consider it : less than stellar advice. Yes, you are quite right. I was being entirely too over-sensitive after the breeding thread of mine… I hope you’ll accept my apology. : > You can all rest assured that I’m : >not planning on breeding any time soon, and I’m looking into furthering : >my dog education in the meantime. : Good. The dogs you currently own are the best "dog" education you : can possibly have. Use them to learn about the various activities : and techniques available to a dog owner. Dogs live a long time, and : your current dogs’ manners, behavior and abilities will act as an : example of the kind of dog owner you are, and the kind of breeder : you might become. : > I’d like to be able to post about : >things that work for me (and things that don’t) without snotty "you sure : >shouldn’t breed if you don’t even know *that*!" follow-ups to each : >thing. : Darling, if you think I’m being snotty, you just haven’t been paying : attention. You wanted to know about becoming a breeder, and about : what kinds of things make a good breeder. I was simply pointing out : that housebreaking your current dogs, teaching them to be polite to : one another (even in the presence of food), and training them in : good manners would make a favorable impression on potential puppy : buyers sometime down the road. The experience gained would allow : you to speak more knowledgeably to new owners about the kinds of : typical "difficulties" you’ve encountered when civilizing a new : member of the family. That’s definitely not the way I took it, but my impression is entirely my responsibility, and I should have asked for clarification before getting my panties all in a bunch. : > ‘Course, you’re all free to post whatever you want, but I thought : >a little reassurance that I’m not turning into puppy mill central any : >time soon might be in order. : Sooner, later, or never. It doesn’t matter. A good breeder is one : who has experience. A good breeder is a resource and recourse to : her puppy buyers, and to fill that niche a good breeder goes out of : her way to understand the psychology and practicality of training. Well said. take care, cindi — "Don’t be afraid to treat your kids with more respect than our culture thinks is normal." _Spiritual Parenting_
Response:
hi Katie,
: Actually, Terri……
: "Just a note from another thread: Cindi, if you’re serious about : eventually breeding dogs, please learn how to housebreak your : current animals. The people who purchase your puppies will probably : be asking many, many questions on the subject and a <shrug>"gee, I : don’t know" is not the best answer." : He did say SOMETHING to her about breeding. Simply because she said "I dont’ : know" concerning crate training while offering her experiences about feeding : dogs. Thanks for pointing this out. : I didn’t like this either:
: "I don’t have much advice on the crate training; both my dogs are not : housebroken." : But some seem to have it "in" for Cindi since her last posts… : Why? *smile* Because I’m a doofus about to do major damage to cockers as a breed and to dogs in general, because i had the nerve to post that breeding really intrigues me? :-) I’m trying not to take it too hard; I need to remind myself that this is the net, and people only know us by what we post, and what I’ve posted here has been quite alarming to several people. That’s understandable, I guess. I do get quite a bit of email quoting bits of things I’ve written in other posts and saying "If you’re going to BREED, you surely should be smarter about x, y and z!" and it does start to feel like I should just keep my e-mouth shut… But email is different than the newsgroup, and I shouldn’t take it out on the newsgroup in general, or especially one poster who barely said anything at all but who just happened to be the last straw, if you know what I mean. Anyway, I appreciate your clarification here, and I wanted to let you know that, and I also wanted to point out that I do understand how people who are really concerned with dogs would find it easy to chastise me over things that indicate I’m not a dog goddess… and it’s not because they hate me or because I’m really bad, because they don’t know me well enough for it to be based in anything like that. It’s just because they care about dogs, and that is admirable. (At least, that’s what I can tell myself on a good day… take care, cindi — "Don’t be afraid to treat your kids with more respect than our culture thinks is normal." _Spiritual Parenting_
Response:
>First off, please accept my apology for being so sensitive about your >remark about breeding. I don’t know your name because I’ve never seen
Sorry. Stupid )($#*&ing newsreader ate my .sig file, and I haven’t gotten it replaced. >Well, that was a mix of sarcasm and true admiration. I know I didn’t >express it very well.
That’s okay. I’m just a little leery of accepting compliments because I know what little stinkers my dogs can be. And whose fault that is. They aren’t perfect, or perfectly trained. They’d drive a saint to drink, at times. But I after I civilize ‘em enough so that I can stand ‘em, incentive to fix the littler, niggly things is just not there… >Actually, they won’t fight in front of me anymore. I’m still feeding >them this way because one tiny bite of puppy food makes Suzi puke.
My Noah, who eats whole birds when he can catch them, has this reaction to cat food. > And because it’s not that hard;
Yup, a lot of times what approach we take to a problem is "situation-dependent". Whatever is easiest, quickest or otherwise "best" at the time. >get their biscuits together, and they are learning that Teddy gets to eat >Teddy’s biscuits and Suzi gets to eat Suzi’s, or else nobody gets >anything.
And I’d have WWIII if I expected my dogs to share, so I enforce a "keep your eyes on your own plate" kinda deal. >: It also doesn’t deal with the lack of respect your dogs display >: toward you by fighting right under your nose. Maybe you allow >: fighting. I don’t. My house, my rules. Bust a rule, deal with me. >I’m glad you brought this up… I do allow bickering — Suzi snarling and >nipping to keep Teddy "in his place." But I don’t allow actual dog >fights, with actual biting being attempted.
On the rare (well, *I* consider it rare, it might be scarily frequent to someone else!) occasions that my dogs fight, it’s usually about status more than food, toys or attention. It also starts in a heartbeat – this is a case where avoidance is a more effective "cure" than trying to work them through it. As I posted to the originators of this thread, most of the time a good alpha will only have to Look at a subordinate to make a correction. Because my alpha dog is somewhat socially inept, he doesn’t know when to quit. I set boundaries for him and he’s learning that posturing is just as effective as tackling/pinning a subordinate. > I posted about this a few >years ago when I had two pound dogs I had rescued and one was very >dominant. I was advised here and by my vet to allow them to sort out >their pecking order, but after several weeks it seemed like keeping the >pecking order in place was not what the dom dog was after — he wanted >more… So I started wondering if I shouldn’t allow any sort of >aggressive or assertive displays at all…
Some dogs, whether through personality or experience, are bullies. They don’t know when to quit, they don’t recognize submission in other dogs. It’s a PITA, that’s for sure. > My instinct tells me that >constantly disciplining the dominant dog when he acts assertive around >the submissive dog will only cause resentment and will cause more extreme >aggression when I’m not around
I agree. The balance point is where the dominant dog is allowed to posture, but not allowed to connect – at least it is in my house. >What I have been doing with Suzi and Teddy is allowing, like I >said, some snarling and snapping, but preventing anything above that.
I don’t like snapping, but that may be a "breed" thing. >So, the question >is, how much dominance should be allowed? (I guess I should have done >this in another thread…)
It’s a good question, though. Keep in mind that "pack" dynamics are not always one-on-one. A submissive dog can become quite aggressive if it thinks it’s being supported by others. (Jack, for example, will become very aggressive toward Noah, to the point of picking a fight, if he’s sitting near his owner. He isn’t "protecting" her from Noah, I think he gets the impression that the two of them are going to "take" Noah. She used to try to pet and reassure Jack when he started acting up. Now she verbally corrects him, and he has stopped picking fights in those situations.) >I guess there is something to be said for setting up situations where the >dogs are trained, even if it’s easier to do it a different way, just >because the more training, the happier the dog… At least that’s what >I’m learning as I read more and more and watch my dogs more and more.
I like training, I like trying to figure out how their little doggie minds work. Part of it is a control thing, but mostly it’s a communication thing. >Aw, I was trying to be funny… You know, means sticking my tongue >out, and means smiling…
I’m emoticon-impaired. >Yes, you are quite right. I was being entirely too over-sensitive after >the breeding thread of mine… I hope you’ll accept my apology.
I accept any and all apologies, whether I’ve deserved them or not. Mary & the Ames National Zoo (K9 exhibit: Sam, Noah, Ranger, and Jack; Equines: Regis and Beau; Felines: Gareth, Emma, Rhiannon, Sibyl, Cosmo and Freeway; OTHER: guinea pigs, finches and fish)
Response:
8 weeks is not too young to crate-train a puppy. You just need to feed him and let him out on a VERY regular schedule (at about 3 hour intervals) during the day. Until the dog is 9-10 weeks old you may need to make a middle-of-the-night outing; by the time he’s 3 months old he ought to be sleeping through the night. I got my most recent vizsla puppy at 7 weeks and found the crate training completely painless for both of us. It’s much less confusing for the dog than the paper-training method you described. Katharine Maus and Ch. Csillag’s Bartok, vizsla
Response:
See if your breeder can recommend a trainer. Some vets will recommend trainers also. You might also check a local breed club.
Response:
best bet is to visit training classes to observe before signing up – then after you can talk to people who are in the class about how they like it when in a class there is NOTHING that can make you do something you think is wrong to your pup – YOU are paying for the class if you choose to ignore some of the instruction it is not the trainer’s ‘place’ to be rude etc about you not following the directions – discuss it maybe but that is it Nancy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I am writing because I’ve found out that not all the training schools >advertised are as reputable as they claim. I’ve had a recent close call >with one. >I’ve gotten complements on my up and he only gets better. He stops at >every corner now. Off leash, in the park, he doesn’t go too far out. He >stops when I call "Halt" and then he sits. He plays well with other >dogs. And I haven’t gotten him to obedience school yet. I would like to >but something occurred recently, that concerns me and a few people have >suggested that I look into this matter. >I was at a cafe and my pup started to bark at this other dog. He’s a >loud one. I told him to keep quiet and he was doing ok until the couple >who owned the other dog started to tease him. They were real nasty >people–what came out of their mouths when I told them to not tease my >dog was really nasty. They continued. It turns out that the woman who >was teasing him with her boyfriend is this trainer (yes that’s right) a >new trainer name of >Pamella Reid "Pamalla’s Dog Obedience" ( I’m residing in Victoria, >British Columbia, right, now). I >couldn’t believe it. My pup was quiet and they still were being nasty. I >told them that he was only 4 1/2 months old. It didn’t seem to matter. >I spoke to the breeder about this and they said that there are people >who hold prejudice against GSD’s and are jealous ( and he is a beauty >and well behaved) so they go out of their way to create problems. The >thing is that one of them was someone who was advertising to be a dog >trainer. What was still more strange she said rather snidely, that I >should bring him to obedience school it was like some scam. Get my pup >upset and then plug their business. Only they weren’t very charming >people. >I’ve noticed that with so many people getting dogs that there are fly by >night dog trainers all over the place. This one "Reid" is one to watch >out for. >I’m very cautious now about taking him to a trainer. Because I really >didn’t know that this was the woman who some people have been trying to >get me to bring my pup to (before I got him). They are her friends it >turns out but I don’t think that her training and boarder business is >something I want to bring my pup to. I’m doing as much research as I can >now to find a good school. >__ >Sincerely, >Lawrence
Response:
I am writing because I’ve found out that not all the training schools advertised are as reputable as they claim. I’ve had a recent close call with one. I’ve gotten complements on my up and he only gets better. He stops at every corner now. Off leash, in the park, he doesn’t go too far out. He stops when I call "Halt" and then he sits. He plays well with other dogs. And I haven’t gotten him to obedience school yet. I would like to but something occurred recently, that concerns me and a few people have suggested that I look into this matter. I was at a cafe and my pup started to bark at this other dog. He’s a loud one. I told him to keep quiet and he was doing ok until the couple who owned the other dog started to tease him. They were real nasty people–what came out of their mouths when I told them to not tease my dog was really nasty. They continued. It turns out that the woman who was teasing him with her boyfriend is this trainer (yes that’s right) a new trainer name of Pamella Reid "Pamalla’s Dog Obedience" ( I’m residing in Victoria, British Columbia, right, now). I couldn’t believe it. My pup was quiet and they still were being nasty. I told them that he was only 4 1/2 months old. It didn’t seem to matter. I spoke to the breeder about this and they said that there are people who hold prejudice against GSD’s and are jealous ( and he is a beauty and well behaved) so they go out of their way to create problems. The thing is that one of them was someone who was advertising to be a dog trainer. What was still more strange she said rather snidely, that I should bring him to obedience school it was like some scam. Get my pup upset and then plug their business. Only they weren’t very charming people. I’ve noticed that with so many people getting dogs that there are fly by night dog trainers all over the place. This one "Reid" is one to watch out for. I’m very cautious now about taking him to a trainer. Because I really didn’t know that this was the woman who some people have been trying to get me to bring my pup to (before I got him). They are her friends it turns out but I don’t think that her training and boarder business is something I want to bring my pup to. I’m doing as much research as I can now to find a good school. __ Sincerely, Lawrence
Response:
I hope that you will be attending the classes with your dog. It is better to take the classes together than the dog alone. I have found the video tape "Command Performance" by David Dikeman to be very helpful for home training.
Response:
I am writing because I’ve found out that not all the training schools advertised are as reputable as they claim. I’ve had a recent close call with one. I’ve gotten complements on my up and he only gets better. He stops at every corner now. Off leash, in the park, he doesn’t go too far out. He stops when I call "Halt" and then he sits. He plays well with other dogs. And I haven’t gotten him to obedience school yet. I would like to but something occurred recently, that concerns me and a few people have suggested that I look into this matter. I was at a cafe and my pup started to bark at this other dog. He’s a loud one. I told him to keep quiet and he was doing ok until the couple who owned the other dog started to tease him. They were real nasty people–what came out of their mouths when I told them to not tease my dog was really nasty. They continued. It turns out that the woman who was teasing him with her boyfriend is this trainer (yes that’s right) a new trainer name of Pamela Reid "Pamalla’s Dog Obedience" ( I’m residing in Victoria, British Columbia, right, now). I couldn’t believe it. My pup was quiet and they still were being nasty. I told them that he was only 4 1/2 months old. It didn’t seem to matter. I spoke to the breeder about this and they said that there are people who hold prejudice against GSD’s and are jealous ( and he is a beauty and well behaved) so they go out of their way to create problems. The thing is that one of them was someone who was advertising to be a dog trainer. What was still more strange she said rather snidely, that I should bring him to obedience school it was like some scam. Get my pup upset and then plug their business. Only they weren’t very charming people. I’ve noticed that with so many people getting dogs that there are fly by night dog trainers all over the place. This one "Reid" is one to watch out for. I’m very cautious now about taking him to a trainer. Because I really didn’t know that this was the woman who some people have been trying to get me to bring my pup to (before I got him). They are her friends it turns out but I don’t think that her training and baorder business is something I want to bring my pup to. I’m doing as much research as I can now to find a good school. __ Lawrence
Response:
I am a owner of a GSD which will be a working dog. Currently I am working building a web page on the subject. Finding a good trainer is as important as finding the right breeder. I am still doing research on finding a good trainer, but thought I will tell you what I learned so far. 1) Check with kennel clubs on trainers, their reputation, and experience. See what the kennel clubs requirements are of a trainer. Some trainers still uses whips, and spiked collars while training a dog, which will make your GSD resentful, and some kennel clubs still allow it. Also, Police K-9 units uses the best trainers for their dog, so see who trains their’s. If they have a trainer on staff, he will not be able to train yours, but can help with referrals(good or bad). 2) Contact the trainer and ask to inspect the facility, and to meet with him. Good trainers have know problem with that. Check prices and warranties. My trainer charges $300 for basic training, but provides lifetime warranty. Some trainers offer lower prices, but offer less, so see what is included in the price. If it is out of your price range, don’t be embarrassed to tell him, and ask for a referal within your price range. 3) When you find a trainer you like, request to observe a training session with your dog before signing up
Response:
See if your breeder can recommend a trainer. Some vets will recommend trainers also. You might also check a local breed club.
Response:
best bet is to visit training classes to observe before signing up – then after you can talk to people who are in the class about how they like it when in a class there is NOTHING that can make you do something you think is wrong to your pup – YOU are paying for the class if you choose to ignore some of the instruction it is not the trainer’s ‘place’ to be rude etc about you not following the directions – discuss it maybe but that is it Nancy – Hide quoted text — Show quoted text – >I am writing because I’ve found out that not all the training schools >advertised are as reputable as they claim. I’ve had a recent close call >with one. >I’ve gotten complements on my up and he only gets better. He stops at >every corner now. Off leash, in the park, he doesn’t go too far out. He >stops when I call "Halt" and then he sits. He plays well with other >dogs. And I haven’t gotten him to obedience school yet. I would like to >but something occurred recently, that concerns me and a few people have >suggested that I look into this matter. >I was at a cafe and my pup started to bark at this other dog. He’s a >loud one. I told him to keep quiet and he was doing ok until the couple >who owned the other dog started to tease him. They were real nasty >people–what came out of their mouths when I told them to not tease my >dog was really nasty. They continued. It turns out that the woman who >was teasing him with her boyfriend is this trainer (yes that’s right) a >new trainer name of >Pamella Reid "Pamalla’s Dog Obedience" ( I’m residing in Victoria, >British Columbia, right, now). I >couldn’t believe it. My pup was quiet and they still were being nasty. I >told them that he was only 4 1/2 months old. It didn’t seem to matter. >I spoke to the breeder about this and they said that there are people >who hold prejudice against GSD’s and are jealous ( and he is a beauty >and well behaved) so they go out of their way to create problems. The >thing is that one of them was someone who was advertising to be a dog >trainer. What was still more strange she said rather snidely, that I >should bring him to obedience school it was like some scam. Get my pup >upset and then plug their business. Only they weren’t very charming >people. >I’ve noticed that with so many people getting dogs that there are fly by >night dog trainers all over the place. This one "Reid" is one to watch >out for. >I’m very cautious now about taking him to a trainer. Because I really >didn’t know that this was the woman who some people have been trying to >get me to bring my pup to (before I got him). They are her friends it >turns out but I don’t think that her training and boarder business is >something I want to bring my pup to. I’m doing as much research as I can >now to find a good school. >__ >Sincerely, >Lawrence
Response:
I am writing because I’ve found out that not all the training schools advertised are as reputable as they claim. I’ve had a recent close call with one. I’ve gotten complements on my up and he only gets better. He stops at every corner now. Off leash, in the park, he doesn’t go too far out. He stops when I call "Halt" and then he sits. He plays well with other dogs. And I haven’t gotten him to obedience school yet. I would like to but something occurred recently, that concerns me and a few people have suggested that I look into this matter. I was at a cafe and my pup started to bark at this other dog. He’s a loud one. I told him to keep quiet and he was doing ok until the couple who owned the other dog started to tease him. They were real nasty people–what came out of their mouths when I told them to not tease my dog was really nasty. They continued. It turns out that the woman who was teasing him with her boyfriend is this trainer (yes that’s right) a new trainer name of Pamella Reid "Pamalla’s Dog Obedience" ( I’m residing in Victoria, British Columbia, right, now). I couldn’t believe it. My pup was quiet and they still were being nasty. I told them that he was only 4 1/2 months old. It didn’t seem to matter. I spoke to the breeder about this and they said that there are people who hold prejudice against GSD’s and are jealous ( and he is a beauty and well behaved) so they go out of their way to create problems. The thing is that one of them was someone who was advertising to be a dog trainer. What was still more strange she said rather snidely, that I should bring him to obedience school it was like some scam. Get my pup upset and then plug their business. Only they weren’t very charming people. I’ve noticed that with so many people getting dogs that there are fly by night dog trainers all over the place. This one "Reid" is one to watch out for. I’m very cautious now about taking him to a trainer. Because I really didn’t know that this was the woman who some people have been trying to get me to bring my pup to (before I got him). They are her friends it turns out but I don’t think that her training and boarder business is something I want to bring my pup to. I’m doing as much research as I can now to find a good school. __ Sincerely, Lawrence
Response:
I hope that you will be attending the classes with your dog. It is better to take the classes together than the dog alone. I have found the video tape "Command Performance" by David Dikeman to be very helpful for home training.
Response:
I am writing because I’ve found out that not all the training schools advertised are as reputable as they claim. I’ve had a recent close call with one. I’ve gotten complements on my up and he only gets better. He stops at every corner now. Off leash, in the park, he doesn’t go too far out. He stops when I call "Halt" and then he sits. He plays well with other dogs. And I haven’t gotten him to obedience school yet. I would like to but something occurred recently, that concerns me and a few people have suggested that I look into this matter. I was at a cafe and my pup started to bark at this other dog. He’s a loud one. I told him to keep quiet and he was doing ok until the couple who owned the other dog started to tease him. They were real nasty people–what came out of their mouths when I told them to not tease my dog was really nasty. They continued. It turns out that the woman who was teasing him with her boyfriend is this trainer (yes that’s right) a new trainer name of Pamela Reid "Pamalla’s Dog Obedience" ( I’m residing in Victoria, British Columbia, right, now). I couldn’t believe it. My pup was quiet and they still were being nasty. I told them that he was only 4 1/2 months old. It didn’t seem to matter. I spoke to the breeder about this and they said that there are people who hold prejudice against GSD’s and are jealous ( and he is a beauty and well behaved) so they go out of their way to create problems. The thing is that one of them was someone who was advertising to be a dog trainer. What was still more strange she said rather snidely, that I should bring him to obedience school it was like some scam. Get my pup upset and then plug their business. Only they weren’t very charming people. I’ve noticed that with so many people getting dogs that there are fly by night dog trainers all over the place. This one "Reid" is one to watch out for. I’m very cautious now about taking him to a trainer. Because I really didn’t know that this was the woman who some people have been trying to get me to bring my pup to (before I got him). They are her friends it turns out but I don’t think that her training and baorder business is something I want to bring my pup to. I’m doing as much research as I can now to find a good school. __ Lawrence
Response:
I am a owner of a GSD which will be a working dog. Currently I am working building a web page on the subject. Finding a good trainer is as important as finding the right breeder. I am still doing research on finding a good trainer, but thought I will tell you what I learned so far. 1) Check with kennel clubs on trainers, their reputation, and experience. See what the kennel clubs requirements are of a trainer. Some trainers still uses whips, and spiked collars while training a dog, which will make your GSD resentful, and some kennel clubs still allow it. Also, Police K-9 units uses the best trainers for their dog, so see who trains their’s. If they have a trainer on staff, he will not be able to train yours, but can help with referrals(good or bad). 2) Contact the trainer and ask to inspect the facility, and to meet with him. Good trainers have know problem with that. Check prices and warranties. My trainer charges $300 for basic training, but provides lifetime warranty. Some trainers offer lower prices, but offer less, so see what is included in the price. If it is out of your price range, don’t be embarrassed to tell him, and ask for a referal within your price range. 3) When you find a trainer you like, request to observe a training session with your dog before signing up
If you like this post and would like to receive updates from this blog, please subscribe our feed.